It’s the best to go where we like the most. Year 2008 I was in Canada for the first time and even then, before we left, I said to myself I will definitely return here. Back then it was really wild good. Oftwenty-one days we had twenty days of climbing. We were really good team: Milena and Miha Praprotnik and Jure Juhasz and me.
Nowthat I’m writingthis, I’m back in myheavenlydestination, here in the land of waterfalls, combined directions and good hills for skiers and alpinists. And because of this hills and walls we now returned. But things doesn’t always workout the way we want, nature is generous withs now from february and it is dreadfully a huge amount of snow. Everywhere is more or less declared the fourth level of danger for launching avalanches. Reallycrazy. But climbing and shaking is possible. We climb difficult waterfalls and mixdirections that are more or lessclose to theroadsand are prettymuch on safe are as from exposed flank with tons of white monster. Weclimb a lot also eno raztežajne dry or mixdirections in canyonsnearBanff. We are a goodteam, capableofmuch more than two hundred meters of steep ice and over hanging rocks. But what do wewant? We enjoy and exploit each day that is given to us in this piece of enormous Canada that is so beautiful that the man to which nature and originality means a lot,easily fall in love and vow to return in thisparadise. Whatwillthenextfewdaysbring is again a riddle, forecast is optimistic, but it wasalsofortodayand it snowedaroundthirtyaroundhere. Thisgivesyouaninrunforthingsthat are withinreachandyoureachthem at leastwithyoureyesand are not exactly a one waystreet. This is why I climb. Because I knowthere is a way back, that is nice to go, butalsonice to return. Return back, like in themountains, walls, climbingareas. Weallknowhowcarefullywepreparethingswewillneed on thetour, which are sometimes more importantthanfoodandwater.
Welltheweatheradjustedand at leastweclimb in more or lessobjectivelysafewalls. Yesterday I waswithCrni in greathillwhere Stanley Headwalllives. It hasseveralgoodandseriousiceandcombineddirectionsforpeoplewho are skilledofsteepiceandcandles, but on goodprotection is not alwaysgood to rely on. It wascrazygood, such as thenwhen me and Jurc crawl on adjacent Nightmare on Wolffroad. It’s reallynice to climb, nice to climbsteepparagraphsoficeandmixedterrain. This is myworld, mybestbranchofalpinism. It’s nice to hang in Osp duringtheweekandthenvisitalsoElicathattellssomethingabouttheoldtimesandthe horde ofthat time climbers. It reallyhad to becrazy in front ofherhouse in weekendnights. She’s smilingwhiletellingstoriesaboutthisandthatwho is laterpassedoutearly in themorningsomewherearoundherhouse, which is for me on one ofthe most beautifulplacesintheworld, engravedamongotherkarsthouseswithgoodbackground, ospwall. Forthis it’s worthwhile! And to sacrificedays so wecanclimb, we are part ofthiscircuswhichputs it in a wholethatwegloballyandroughlysayalpinismwhich is differentfromothersports, whichgivesyou more thanjust a result, whichgivesyousomething more than a recognitionand a medal, whichgivesyou more than a hundredwordsandhundredsreporterswhowants to make a show, whowantifwe let them to. Andherewe are again, whyweclimb? To savetheworlddefinitely not. To saveourselves, definitelyyes. I readsomewherethat some peopledon’t want to exposethemselves, they don’t like to reportaboutclimbeddirections, it’s not necessary. They’re not forced. I like to write a line or twoaboutadventuresthat are part ofthetouraloneandtheascentitself.
Forthefourth time I walkunderthewall Stanley, this time with Jernej, a little sad, becauseoftwothings. Thefirstthing is thatthis is our last tour on thisgoodexpeditionandthesecondthatweonlywatchedfromafarthoselargewalls. Landslidesandeverydaybadforecastdidn’t allow us to at leasttry or wedidn’t haveenoughEastereggs (because it’s Easterhere) … Todayweintend to climb one goodclassichere in thewall. Yes, Nemesis is reallygoodwaterfall, althoughlongonlytwo pitches as Housedescribed in hisexcellent debutBeyondmountain.
Again it’s time to saygoodbyeandagain I know I willreturnhere. It’s reallycrazygoodhere, for me, I thinkforallof us whowerehereforthreeweeks on excellenticeandmixeswhich are hereforallyear. Here is a debt, hills, walls, I willdefinitelycome back forthem. Maybenext time pathswings on south, Patagoniacalls… Will it beovershadowedagainbyCanada? Time willbringmaturation.
Axes go in thecornerforcoupleofmonths, climbingshoesshouldbe on myfeet a long time ago, buttheypatientlywait. We go, now it’s really time to spit twice in bothhands, becausealsothisyear dolomit wallsawaits. Andthatlong line that is still not climbed is like a mantra in mysubconscioussince last year’s summer.