Kandersteg in Vallunga


I went to Breitwangflue with special purpose, when Marcus suggested me that the route Ritter der Kokosnuß is still not repeated. I spent lot of time on my ice tools last two months. And knew that I was capable to freeclimb in this rare route of that difficulty in the world, that isn’t equipped with anchors. Honestly I was sure that I could climb it on sight if only everything would be the way I planned to happen. It doesn’t happen every day, not even to me. But this day was my day and everything was perfect.


I went to Val Gardena with Tine searching the remaining pieces of ice. Even here high temperatures are melting ice, like it was already summer. Even so, we still found two beautiful routes. The conditions in first called La Piovra that is situated in north slopes were almost perfect. I really enjoyed climbing that route. The second day we climbed route (SenzaPiobo). This route is positioned to south-est. While ice climbing, we felt like two soldiers from Second World War on front. It was like all day someone was shooting on us with canon from top of the route. All this was pretty scary and I wasn’t sure, if I wanted to ice climb white ice of doubtful quality. So we decided to descent. I spent lot of my time on ice this season even if the conditions near my home were very bad for ice formation.

  • Breitwangflue, Ritter der Kokosnuß (M12, WI5, 165m), – 1st on sight ascent – Dejan Koren and (Stanka Koren) – 28.2.2014
  • Vallunga, La Piovra (WI 5+, 130m, 3h) – Dejan Koren and Tine Andreašič – 10.3.2014

Dejan Koren – DeKo (GRIVEL, MONTURA, Singing Rock)