Mali Rateški Mangart in Punta Giovannina

Nekoč sem si mislil, da so vse stene že nabito polne z preplezanimi linijami. Potem pa z leti odkrivaš ravno obratno, da je prostora še veliko in neskončno možnosti za nove smeri.

Pred par leti, ko sva s Stanko plezala v Malem Rateškem Mangartu mi je pogled nenehno uhajal v osrednji del stene, ki je kar sameval. Preko le te, monolitnega osrednjega dela, sem si že takrat mislil, da bi potekala odlična smerca v super odlični skali. In res, zadnji v juliju in prvi vikend v avgustu sva s Stanko preživela nad belopeškimi jezeri in dodala tudi najin kamenček v mozaik tej lepi, kompaktni, a žal malo prekratki steni. V štirih dneh je nastala in bila prosto splezana smer Andando avanti (Gremo naprej …), kar naključno dokazuje, da je treba nadaljevati začrtano pot oziroma se prepustiti toku v katerem tako radi plavamo. Smer krasi zares lepa skala, odlični in mestoma malo zabeljeni prehodi preko navidez neprehodnih detajlov. Varovanje je odlično, mogoče le v zadnjih dveh raztežajih ne bo odveč kakšen friend (od C0.75 do C2), vse ostalo je opremljeno s svedri. Je treba pa vedet, da ne gre ravno za dolgo frikovsko smer v katero se odpraviš samo s kompleti in magnezij vrečko. Tu je treba še poudarit, da je dostop do pod stene res lagoden iz mangartskega sedla si pod steno v dobri pol urici hoda.

EN

I once thought that all the walls are already crowded with climbing lines. Then over the years you discover just the opposite, that there’s a lot of space and endless possibilities for new route.

Couple of years ago when I and my wife Stanka were climbing the Mali Rateški Mangrt, my view constantly escaping into the central part of the wall,

which seems propagated behind. Only through this, the central part of a monolithic, even then I thought it would be a great place for little climbing route in super excellent rock. And really, the last in July and first weekend in

August we spent with Stanka above Belopeška lakes and added our piece to the mosaic to this beautiful, compact, but unfortunately a little too short wall. In four days was created and free climbed the new route Andando Avant (Go ahead …), which incidentally demonstrates the need to continue its planned path or to go with the flow. The direction is decorated with really nice rock,with some great transitions through seemingly impassible details. Protection is great, only in the last two stretches a friend may be necessary (from C0.75 to C2), everything else is fitted with taps. But be aware that this is not just for long cool direction in which you go only with a bag sets and magnesium. The

access from Mangart sadle to the wall is quite leisurely and takes a good half an hour walk.

 

stena Malega Rateškega Mangarta
stena Malega Rateškega Mangarta
zadnji raztežaji nove smeri
zadnji raztežaji nove smeri
"študija" težjih delov drugega raztežaja
“študija” težjih delov drugega raztežaja
Stanka v "delovni akciji"
Stanka v “delovni akciji”

Ko sva dober mesec nazaj s Stanko odhajal pozno izpod Tofane di Rozes se je pogled ustavil v zlato obarvani jugo-zahodni steni Punta Giovaninne, hriba, ki se dotika bolj slavne in večje Tofane di Mezzo. Kot nekakšna ljubezen v meni mi ni dala miru in bilo je treba še to poletje nazaj. Že v popolni temi prisopihava z Boštjanom polno otovorjena v kočo Giussani, ki leži natanko pod steno. Res si kaj lepšega ne moreš želeti, da lahko greš skoraj v plezalkah pod steno. Prvotna ideja je bila, da bi v osrednjem delu dodala najino smer. A ko sva zjutraj videla, da markantni južni raz nima še smeri, ni bilo več debate kje bi lahko smer potekala. Tri težje raztežaje sva opremila s svedri v lažjih je pa potrebno imeti s seboj set friendov in pa kakšen klin ne bo odveč. Samo smer krasi res lepa linija, markantnost, lepa izpostavljenost in zračnost na eni strani, na drugi pa mestoma krušljiva skala, a ob solidnem varovanju plezalcu doraslemu plezanju osmice v hribih ne bo to nevem kašna ovira. Od tod tudi ime smeri La Bomba. Je pa to šesta smer v steni in ena najtežjih. Spet je bilo tako preprosto lepo, biti tu kjer sem tako zelo rad in vem, da … zagledal sem se v nov izziv, ki se mu ne moram spet upreti, a le čas me drži od njega proč in ko se spet vsi uskladimo bo spet tako preprosto lepo, kot že tolikokrat do sedaj …

EN

Month ago, when was already sunset we walked down together with Stanka from Tofana di Rozes. Our gaze stopped on the gold-colored from the falling sun wall of the south-west Punta Giovaninne touching more famous and bigger hill – Tofana di Mezzohill. As a kind of love to that place rose in me did not give me peace and I had to go back the same summer. In total darkness we finally got with Boštjan, loaded with all the equipment to the hut Giussani, which lies right under the wall. The most beautiful part is the wall is possible to climb in just climbing shoes, you can not wish for more. The first idea was to add in the central part of the wall our own direction. But when we saw in the morning that striking southern revelation does not any direction, there was no debate over where to place our direction anymore. Three harder pitches we equipped with drills, for lighter ones a set of friends is necessary, also a wedge or two would be great. The direction is formed in really nice line, designation, beautiful exposure and airy on the one hand, on the other crumbly rock, but for a climber who can climb on the hills of level eight with some protection, that won’t do any trouble. That’s where the source of name La Bomba comes. This is however a sixth course in the wall and one of the hardest. Again, this was simply beautiful, to be where I love to be so much and I know that I saw a new challenge, who I can not resist, but only time keeps me away from it and once again when we will all be able to arrange our time together it will be like so many times so far – simply beautiful …

Punta Giovannina in La Bomba
Punta Giovannina in La Bomba
začetek 5.R
začetek 5.R
konec 5.R
konec 5.R
... in zgornji del
… in zgornji del
spodnji del smeri ...
spodnji del smeri …
... in zgornji del
… in zgornji del
z Boštjanom sva bila prvič skupaj na isti vrvi, a zagotovo ne zadnjič ...  Odlično sva se ujela!
z Boštjanom sva bila prvič skupaj na isti vrvi, a zagotovo ne zadnjič … Odlično sva se ujela!

Nekaj pregleda iz zadnjega meseca:

  • Da Corte Vecchino Aldo – Nobile , Cima Piccolissima, 7b+/c, 220m, Dejan Koren in (Stanka Vidmar) (10.07.2011)
  • Andando avanti, Mali Rateški Mangart, 7c (7a obbl.), 250m, 4h, prv. Dejan Koren in (Stanka Vidmar) (30. 31. 07, 06. 08. 2011)
  • Žival, Kupljenik, 7c, NP (Stanka Vidmar)
  • La Bomba, Punta Giovaninna, Gruppo delle Tofane, VIII, IV, 450m, 5h, prv. Dejan Koren in Boštjan Mikuž (12.13.08.2011)

 

Dejan Koren – DeKo (GRIVEL, Singing Rock)