We arrived in El Chalten on Friday 25.10. after changing our expedition plan from first intended Cerro San Lorenzo to El Chalten Massif due to Nejc`s broken shoulder. So Nejc should stay at home, only me and Boštjan flew to Patagonia. Continue reading Patagonija 2013
All posts by Dejan Koren
Gladiator, Cima delle Cenge, Riofreddo
- Polvere bianca – Marco Milanese in Alex Franco 80m IV, 1L WI 4, 2L WI 5
- Mix and rasta tricks – Marco Milanese Fabrizio della Rossa 80m V, M5+, WI 5+ (Marec 2011)
- Per Leila – Luca Vuerich in Marco Milanese 120m IV, WI 6+/7- (Januar 2009)
- Tridente – Alessandro di Lenardo in Luca Vuerich 90 m IV, WI 6 (Marec 1996)
- Super Stridente – Luca Vuerich in Federico Compassi 100m IV, WI6 (Februar 2009)
- Equilibrio – Luca Vuerich in Romano Benet 205 m, IV, WI6 (Februra 2003)
- Gladiator – Dejan Koren in Boštjan Mikuž 205 m, IV, M7-, WI6, X, R (26.1.2013)
- Alpino 2014 – Boštjan Mikuž in Elvis Furlani 200 m, III, WI4/5 (29.12.2012)
- Canale – Alessandro di Lenardo in Luca Vuerich 600 m, IV, WI4+ (Januar 2002)
- Contarsto – Alessandro di Lenardo in Luca Vuerich 150 m, IV, WI6 (Januar 2002)
- Vibra – Andrej Magajne in Simon Slejko 180 m, IV, WI6-, X (Februar 2003)
- Mr Luca – Dejan Koren in Boštjan Bizjak 100 m (140 m), III, M7, WI7, X, R (Januar 2011)
- Mr Risk – Luca Vuerich in Romano Benet 140 m, III, WI7, X, R (Februar 2003)
- Riofreddo – Alessandro di Lenardo in Luca Vuerich 500 m, III, WI5 (Marec 1996)
It’s nothing better than to return where we like the most. Yes, I really like valley Riofreddo, because there is always peace, peaceful silence, few people, great winter and summer lines and it is this isolation that gives that shine that you don’t find it very often. Two years ago I already spent a few wonderful winter days here. Yes, Mr. Risk and Luca still doesn’t leave me cold when I remember at them. At the time I wrote this.
That day, when it was everything crazy between Christmas and New Year’s Eve, this beautiful place was the right place for a retreat. In our region you could enjoy in short sleeves, but here you realize why the Valley is called the Valley of Cold waters. It was awesome, crazy weekend, full of laughter, a lot of fun and good climbing. Four guys went to those ends. Boštjan and Elvis climbed a new direction, Alpino 2014, me and Tine repeated great line Contarsto. The second day Boštjan and I repeated the masterpiece of Benet and Vuerich – Equilibro. Great mix line goes across the whole amphitheater to the edge of the wall.
Back then we realized that it will not be long before we return to this quiet paradise. And, after a visit of two ice festivals, it came time to fulfill last year’s debt. Under the wall Boštjan and I came with purpose to climb a line that we saw last time. It looked beautiful, logic and not that hard as it turned out later. Yes, it was diverse, especially at last pitch we advise repeaters to take along a wedge and set camelots (od C0.5 – 1). But it is a fantastic line that offers you everything, from very steep pitch of ice to mix climb. In the direction we left one piton. We stepped from our new route. This is the route that undoubtedly belongs in the collage of beautiful and right lines in this beautiful and peaceful valley.
- Gladiator, Cima delle Cenge, Valle di Riofreddo – 205 m, IV, M7-, WI6, X, R Dejan Koren – DeKo in Boštjan Mikuž PRV(26.1.2013)
Dejan Koren – DeKo (GRIVEL, MONTURA, Singing Rock)
Rocky Mountains 2012
It’s the best to go where we like the most. Year 2008 I was in Canada for the first time and even then, before we left, I said to myself I will definitely return here. Back then it was really wild good. Oftwenty-one days we had twenty days of climbing. We were really good team: Milena and Miha Praprotnik and Jure Juhasz and me.
Nowthat I’m writingthis, I’m back in myheavenlydestination, here in the land of waterfalls, combined directions and good hills for skiers and alpinists. And because of this hills and walls we now returned. But things doesn’t always workout the way we want, nature is generous withs now from february and it is dreadfully a huge amount of snow. Everywhere is more or less declared the fourth level of danger for launching avalanches. Reallycrazy. But climbing and shaking is possible. We climb difficult waterfalls and mixdirections that are more or lessclose to theroadsand are prettymuch on safe are as from exposed flank with tons of white monster. Weclimb a lot also eno raztežajne dry or mixdirections in canyonsnearBanff. We are a goodteam, capableofmuch more than two hundred meters of steep ice and over hanging rocks. But what do wewant? We enjoy and exploit each day that is given to us in this piece of enormous Canada that is so beautiful that the man to which nature and originality means a lot,easily fall in love and vow to return in thisparadise. Whatwillthenextfewdaysbring is again a riddle, forecast is optimistic, but it wasalsofortodayand it snowedaroundthirtyaroundhere. Thisgivesyouaninrunforthingsthat are withinreachandyoureachthem at leastwithyoureyesand are not exactly a one waystreet. This is why I climb. Because I knowthere is a way back, that is nice to go, butalsonice to return. Return back, like in themountains, walls, climbingareas. Weallknowhowcarefullywepreparethingswewillneed on thetour, which are sometimes more importantthanfoodandwater.
Continue reading Rocky Mountains 2012